San Francesco a Ripa

We leave St. Peter’s  and walk to the Trastevere district through the Via delle Lungara see the old Porta Settimiana, where we will visit San Francesco a Ripa.

Porta Settimiana
Porta Settimiana Trastevere Rome

picture: William Kimber

As we enter this church, the Cappella Paluzzi-Albertoni, also known as the Altieri Chapel or Albertoni Chapel is in the fourth bay on the far left. It can be found here on the internet.

San Francesco a Ripa
facade
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 San Francesco a Ripa facade Rome

interior
Albertoni Chapel
left aisle

San Francesco a Ripa Rome

picture: Wikipedia

San Francesco a Ripa
left aisle
Albertoni chapel
San Francesco a Ripa left aisle Albertoni chapel Bernini
San Francesco a Ripa
left aisle
Albertoni chapel
San Francesco a Ripa left aisle Albertoni chapel Bernini

Bernini demolishes the old chapel and deepens the chapel so that daylight can enter.

Bernini
Albertoni chapel
Bernini Albertoni chapel San Francisco a Ripa

In the nearby Santa Cecilia, the statue of St. Cecilia is under the altar. Bernini places Ludovica Albertoni on the altar.

S. Cecilia
Stefano Maderno
Santa Cecilia
1600
S. Cecilia Stefano Maderno ‘de heilige Cecilia’ 1600

With this late work Bernini returns to his early period when he worked for the Pamphilis. Just like the Cornaro Chapel, this chapel is also a combination of sculpture, painting and architecture. This chapel was built to commemorate the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni who was venerated in this area. Bernini received the assignment in 1671 and the work was completed in 1674. The chapel was already there, just like the Chigi Chapel, and Gian Lorenzo did not change its structure and frescos. The existing chapel had a square layout featuring a dome on pendants supported by pillars. What was new was Bernini’s addition of an altar. Located behind and above this altar is a sarcophagus with a bed on top of it in which the saint lies in a state of suffering and religious ecstasy. Above Ludovica hangs a painting by Battista Gaulli representing the Virgin Mary with her child and St Ann. Bernini placed a number of putti just outside the painting’s gilded frame. Their gazes are fixed on the woman on the bed.

Ludovica Albertoni
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Bernini Ludovica Albertoni

pictures: ngari.norway and sneault06

Light enters the chapel through windows on both sides that cannot be seen when you’re standing in the chapel. Bernini further enlarged the chapel to create more space for these windows. The coffered arch appears to embrace Gaulli’s painting. Behind Ludovica is a frieze with pomegranates that are bursting open. Many of the details are variations on earlier drawings, for instance of the Scala Regia, as demonstrated by the painting’s frame.

Ludovica Albertoni (1473-1533) was a rich woman who was forced to marry but was soon widowed. She dedicated her life to the service of the poor and joined the Third Order of St Francis in Trastevere. It was said that Ludovica floated on air when she was praying to God. She died of a fever at the age of 60. She was almost immediately regarded as a saint, even though she was not officially beatified until 1671. However, Ludovica never obtained sainthood. Cardinal Paluzzo Paluzzi Albertoni, whose cousin had married into the powerful Altieri family, wanted to see his relative venerated. It was he who designated her blessed, the first step toward beatification.

Ludovica Albertoni
face
Bernini Ludovica Albertoni

The statue of the Blessed Ludovica, one of Bernini’s late masterworks, has raised many questions. Is this tormented and exited woman gripped by divine love? Her hand on her chest seems to suggest that. Looking at the folds of the drape, one could imagine her being carried up to Heaven.

 Cappella Paluzzi-Albertoni
San Francesco a Ripa
Bernini
1671-1674
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Cappella Paluzzi-Albertoni San Francesco a Ripa Bernini 1671-1674

Underneath the bed covering the coffin, lies a cloth carved from precious Sicilian jasper. We encountered a similar cloth at the tomb of Urban VIII (The cloth that Death holds up with his hourglass. The original cloth was made of painted wood, but in 1702 was replaced by the current cloth made of jasper. Bernini probably intended to use quartz for this cloth right from the start. In the 17th century, but also earlier, it was customary to cover a coffin with a cloth, often adorned with the deceased’s coat of arms. The Blessed Ludovica’s remains are still in this grave.

Bernini
Bernini model of Ludovica Albertoni

Bernini model clayof Ludovica Albertoni

Bernini
Ludovica Albertoni
Lighting side window
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Bernini Ludovica Albertoni Lighting side window

To officially seal the beatification witnesses from the area were questioned to ascertain whether the veneration of Ludovica actually had any effect. The nuns of the convent of Tor de’Specchi acted as witnesses. Bernini’s sister was a member of this order.

Bernini’s brother Luigi had brutally raped a young man behind the statue of Constantine in the Scala Regia when it had not been completed yet. Luigi Bernini was banished from Rome and his family was sentenced to a hefty fine. Gian Lorenzo, who had to live with the shame, offered to design and build the Altieri chapel free of charge, hoping to partly erase the shame and lower the fine. His plan worked, the fine was lowered and Luigi allowed to return to Rome in 1675. This made this assignment a very special one for Gian Lorenzo. To the deeply religious artist this was a form of atonement.

Giovanni Battista Maini sculpted the saint Anna in the 18th century for the church, Sant’Andrea delle Fratte, in Rome. Maini has taken the Ludovica of Bernini as an example. He placed her under the altar as usual.

Giovanni  Battista Maini  Cappella Paluzzi-Albertoni 1750-1752 Sant’Andrea delle Fratte
Saint Anne   face of Saint Anne 
Giovanni  Battista Maini  Cappella Paluzzi-Albertoni Saint Anne  Sant'Andrea delle Fratte

Finally, if the sexton allows it, we are going to have a look at the neighbouring monastery where St Francis’ cell is located (first floor church and monastery). This cell has a portrait of the saint that was painted shortly after his death. Also really unique is a reliquary holding no less than 18,000 relics. An ingenious mechanism (Youtube  0.10 minutes) allows visitors to admire the relics one by one. To quote a guy called Rob: “it’s a real trophy cabinet”.  More information and  video: St. Franciscus in  Rome -the restoration: click here.

St. Francis’ cell and reliquary
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stone believed to be used by St. Francis of Assisi as a pillow
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San Francesco a Ripa Rome

 

We walk to the Viale di Trastevere where we take the bus or just go on foot to our hotel.

To the next page (Day 5)