Torcello: the Santa Maria Assunta and the Santa Fosca

Venice big size      Dam built in the 19th century

Photo dam built in the 19th century: Dmitri Opekine 

Jewish Ghetto        Restaurant        Rio della Misericordia      Large size
Jewish Ghetto aerial Venice
 
 
Campo Ghetto Nuovo     Campo Ghetto  cast iron bridge
The word ghetto is named after the cast iron (ghetto=cast iron) bridge
Campo Ghetto  cast iron bridge Venice

 

Campo ghetto Nuovo cast iron bridge  large size
Campo ghetto Nuovo cast iron bridge  Venice

photo: François de Nodrest / Pantchoa

From the hotel, we walk to the Fondamente Nuove via the Jewish ghetto, where we will have breakfast and dinner. Here we take the boat that passes Isola di S. Michele, Murano and Burano to finally arrive at the island of Torcello. You have probably heard quite a bit about this unique island in class. It had much greater importance in the 11th century and was home to more people than Venice. After disembarking, we will walk along the canal to the church.

Vittore Carpaccio ‘Hunting on the lagoon’ detail large      
Vittore Carpaccio 'Hunting in the Lagoon' detail oil on panel, 75.6 x 63.8 cm. c. 1495, J.Paul Getty museum
 
Vittore Carpaccio ‘Hunting on the lagoon’ large      Detail 
Vittore Carpaccio 'Hunting in the Lagoon' oil on panel, 75.6 x 63.8 cm. c. 1495, J.Paul Getty museum

Vittore Carpaccio ‘Hunting in the Lagoon’ oil on panel, 75.6 x 63.8 cm. c. 1495, J. Paul Getty museum
The original panel was sawn in half.
‘Two Venetian Ladies’ oil on  panel, 94 x 63 cm. c. 1495, Correr museum Venice 

 

The lagoon of  Venice large size       The lagoon and the sea
 
Lagoon large size         Aerial picture of the lagoon         View on Santa Maria Assunta      Lagoon en youtube drone (1.55 minutes)

picture: Wikipedia

 
Torcello boat stop and the canal to Santa Maria Assunta
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Torcello boat stop Venice

pictures: gabrilu 

The path from the boat stop to Santa Maria Assunta    Path large
Torcello canal to Santa Maria Assunta

picture: Mike Guo

 
Torcello with view on the Santa Maria Assunta      Torcello      Campanile
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Torcello with view on the Santa Maria Assunta
 
Torcello with view on the Santa Maria Assunta large size            Apse and side large size
 Santa Maria Assunta Torcello

Photo: AreKev

The island’s canals silted up due to a twist of Mother Nature, destroying a flourishing economy. As a result, neither of the island’s two churches were ever rebuilt in a more contemporary style

Santa Maria Assunta and the Santa Fosca
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Santa Maria Assunta and the Santa Fosca aerial Torcello
 
Joseph Karl Stieler  ca. 1810
Joseph Karl Stieler Santa Maria Assunta Santa Fosca Torcello c 1810

The cathedral Santa Maria Assunta (Assumption of the Virgin Mary) dates from the 7th century but was rebuilt in the 9th and 11th century. The original church had only three naves and just one round apse (two more were added later). In other words, a typical early Christian Roman basilica that can also be found in Grado and Ravenna. Not much remains of the 7th century baptistery, just the circumference of the wall and a few bases of columns. The original baptistery (eight columns and a dome) was located at the front of the cathedral (click here for the floor plans of Santa Maria Assunta and Santa Fosca).

 

The baptistery was for the most part based on the Lateran baptistery in Rome. An inscription was discovered during the 1895 restoration of Santa Maria Assunta. It showed that the church was dedicated to Mary and founded during the reign of emperor Heraclius. Isac, the patriarch of Ravenna, had commissioned its construction in 639. The floorplan has for the most part been preserved, and yet there is little visual evidence of the original materials. The wall of the central apse and the lower part of the entrance wall date from the 7th century.

The original floor lies beneath the present one. In 1929, the original altar was discovered during excavations and restored to its original location.  The church was renovated in 864 under Bishop Adeodato, as stated in the chronicles of John the Deacon. The two side apses and the crypt were built after 864 and the outer wall probably also dates from this period. Santa Maria Assunta acquired its current exterior in 1008 under bishop Orso Orseolo, who later became doge. The floor was raised during this period. Windows were added to the upper part of the south wall, adding one clerestory to the nave. These upper windows in the south wall still have the original stone hinges that the wooden shutters are attached to. The arches of the colonnade are the stone arches from the 11th century. Two capitals on the right hand side of the nave were reused.

Santa Maria Assunta large size           Nave large size      Floor and apse
Santa Maria Assunta nave with view on main altar and apse Torcello

The interior is quite austere, in marked contrast with the San Marco. The concha of the apse features a mosaic of the Virgin Mary with Child.

Santa Assunta interior Torcello painting
 
Mary with child and apostles conga large size
Santa Assunta Mary with child and apostles conga Torcello

 

Mary view of the apse and choir screen
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Torcello Santa Maria Assunta mosaic Mary apse
 
 
Left aisle and the Cosmati pavement         Pavement detail
Santa Assunta left aisle Torcello
 
Right aisle apse large size
Santa Maria Assunta Right aisle apse Torcello
 
Right aisle apse large size
Santa Assunta right aisle apse mosaic Torcello
 
Torcello Santa Maria Assunta mosaic Christ and right apse 9th century
Torcello Santa Maria Assunta mosaic Christ apse

Christ among the archangels Michael Gabriel Nicolas, Ambrose, Augustin, Martin

When we’re in Santa Maria Assunta, we will focus on the unique mosaics on the Apocalypse.

Last Judgement details entire west wall large size
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Torcello Santa Maria Assunta mosaic Last Judgment west wall

 

 Crucifixion large size
Santa Maria Assunta mosaic Crucifixion Torcello

 

 

The empty throne large size
Santa Maria Assunta mosaic detail: the empty Throne Torcello
 
Christ saves souls from the limbo of hel
Santa Maria Assunta mosaic Last Judgement detail: Christ saves souls from the limbo of hel Torcello

 

Last Judgement large size      Detail: Christ
Santa Assunta detail Last Judgement mosaic Torcello

photo: Cameraphoto Arte, Venice/Art Resource, NY

Last Judgement large size
Santa Assunta detail Last Judgement mosaic Torcello

photo: Julia Kostecka 

Unfortunately, entire sections of the mosaics were removed in the 19th century and replaced with copies. When leaving the church, the visitor was subtly reminded to remember the Day of Judgement. Very few could read, but the images, arranged like a comic strip, were all too well understood.

The resurrection of the dead, the angel weighing the souls, but mostly the horrible events in hell must have made lasting impressions on the churchgoers. All the more so as images were relatively rare during the Middle Ages.

The Santa Fosca

Adjacent to the cathedral Santa Maria Assunta is a small church called Santa Fosca (floor plan, vertical elevation and cross section). This little church is a mausoleum specifically built for Saint Fosca.

Saint  Santa Fosca large size
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Santa Fosca relief sculpture saint Fosca Torcello
 
 
Santa Fosca large size        Rear of the Santa Fosca         Apse
Santa Fosca Torcello

A martyr who was brought to the island in 1011, or at least his bones were. The church is not just a martyrium, but was also used for certain ceremonies and of course to worship the relics.

Santa Fosca

 

 

Santa Fosca large size       Cross section
Santa Fosca interior Torcello

 

The wooden dome of the Santa Fosca      Large size      Dome outside
The wooden dome of the Santa Fosca  Torcello

Only limited numbers of believers ever met in Santa Fosca, so a small central-plan church was the most suitable construction type. The Roman model was probably copied from Santa Stefano. And yet, Santa Fosca shows Byzantine influences just like Galla Placida in Ravenna, which, just like this church, has a Greek Cross as its floor plan. The church is crowned by a round dome. A Greek cross with a dome is one of the most important characteristics of Byzantine architecture. The most famous example of which is the Hagia Sophia, built in the early 6th century. The domed Greek cross also became a dominant theme of Venetian architecture. The builders of Santa Fosca obviously also wanted a dome, but the construction was not all that strong, which is why they built a wooden dome that was raised on the outside: a safe and cheap solution.

The portico around Santa Fosca dates from the 12th century. In the portico, the Greek cross changes into an octagonal with five bays on each side and three on the diagonal sides. The portico’s alternation of round and polygonal columns is a nice variation. And the arches have been substantially lengthened compared to the interior of Santa Fosca. The portico has a clear vertical accent which directs the eye to the construction elements above. The whole appears to be a complicated mass of various construction elements with a climactic centre that nevertheless is in perfect harmony. This is a characteristic of 6th century Byzantine architecture that can also be found in Ravenna, for example in San Vitale.

Portico Santa Fosca
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Santa Fosca Torcello portico

pictures: forgia1

We will take a walk around this little church. The exterior at the rear, the east side, near the apse consists of simple bricks, albeit richly decorated. The dogtooth pattern is often used in early Christian Veneto-Byzantine churches, although rarely on the outside as is the case with Santa Fosca. The combination of red brick and white marble was quite common and often used in Venetian architecture. San Marco looked like that in 11th century, prior to the large-scale decoration programme that lasted several centuries. Santa Fosca is an early and important example of Byzantine architecture in the lagoon.

Apse sides and dogtooth pattern
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Santa Fosca Torcello apse  dogtooth pattern

picture (mouseover): Gio Vencato

Before we leave the island, we will climb to the top of the campanile from where you can enjoy a beautiful view.

The campanile and the view
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Santa Maria AssuntaTorcello the campanile and the view

pictures: Lispanico – Federico Gherlenda

We will pass Burano when we take the boat back to Venice.

View of  Torcello on Burano       View of Burano on Torcello zoom in     Burano large size
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View of  Torcello on Burano  aerial Venice

photo: gabrilu

The trip back from Torcello via the Canal Grande. The Canal Grande originally was a meandering river carving out a path in the marshy lagoon. It always was the most important connection and still is extremely busy today.

Venice aerial big size      Video Venetië by Drone (4.04  minutes)
Ignazio Danti Map of Venice fresco 1580 – 1583 Galleria delle Carta Geografiche Vatican

 

 
Michele Marieschi ‘Rialto bridge from the south’ large size      Details: Bridge     Gondola      Left bank       Right bank
Michele Marieschi 'Rialto bridge from the south' 18th century, oil on canvas , 56 x 84,7 cm, private collection 

Michele Marieschi ‘Rialto bridge from the south’ 18th century oil on canvas , 56 x 84,7 cm, private collection 

 
Canaletto ‘The entrance to the Canal Grande’ 49.6 x 73.6 cm, oil on canvas  ca.1730 Museum of Fine Arts, Houston large size
Edward Pritchett ‘The Church of the Salute’ Sotheby’s, New York, oil on canvas, 92 x 143 cm 19th century
Canaletto 'The entrance to the Canal Grande' 49.6 x 73.6 cm, oil on canvas  ca.1730 Museum of Fine Arts, Houston

The canal is four kilometres long, between 30 and 70 meters wide and five metres deep. Three bridges cross the Canal Grande, the most famous of which is the Rialto bridge with its shops. Most of the palaces facing the Canal Grande are 500 years old. It was a very popular and very expensive place to build, which is why most of the houses facing are rightfully called palazzi.

Rialto bridge in the present day and Canaletto’s vision and a video reconstruction (1.55 minutes)       Livecam
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Canaletto Rialto bridge Venice
 
Friedrich Nerly ‘View of the Grand Canal Looking Towards the Rialto Bridge’ 19th century  oil on canvas, 75.2 x 109.2 cm large size
Friedrich Nerly 'View of the Grand Canal Looking Towards the Rialto Bridge' 19th century  oil on canvas, 75.2 x 109.2 cm

Standing in the boat, you can perfectly read the architectural history from the facades along the Canal Grande. We will take a closer look at several of the palazzi facing the Canal Grande in the architecture programme, albeit from jetties and narrow dead-end alleyways.

Palazzi along the Grand Canal Venice 

The chronological order below is unfortunately not the route that we are taking. For the itinerary please read the bold numbers in brackets. We first pass number 1, etc. The typical 13th century Veneto-Byzantine style can for instance be seen in the Ca da Mosto (more specifically the ground floor; photo: dvdbramhall) one of the oldest palazzi on the canal. The same applies to the 13th century Fondaco dei Turchi which will soon appear on our starboard side.

Ca’ da Mosto facade    Facade on the landward side     Ground floor      First floor reliefs

picture:  Javier Pereda

Fondaco dei Turchi large size
Fondaco dei Turchi Venice

One of the most impressive houses was named for the gold that used to cover it. This house from 1420 is a good example of Gothic architecture in Venice.

Ca’d’Oro large size
Ca' d'Oro Venice

Click here for the continuation of day 1